Carrot Planting - How to Grow Carrots In The Garden

Grow some crunchy carrots in your garden with these easy tips for some crispy-sweet nutrition.

Freshly harvested carrots
(Image credit: samael334 / Getty Images)

Carrots are a “triple threat” in the garden, being nutritious, versatile in the kitchen, and a relatively low-maintenance crop. As a root vegetable, carrots are prized for their sweet, crunchy, edible taproot and their wealth of beta-carotene (a precursor to vitamin A), but they are also appreciated for the rainbow of colors—from the familiar orange to purple, white, yellow, and red.

Derived from the wild carrot known as Queen Anne’s Lace and commonly found in hedges and fields, the cultivated carrot has its roots in Eurasia, with the species native to temperate regions of Europe, North Africa, and western Asia. Today, carrots are grown around the world across many climates.

As a crop, these root vegetables are incredibly useful: they’re eaten fresh, cooked, juiced, and stored; they make great additions to soups, salads, and stews; and they can even be pickled or dried. So if you’re starting a vegetable garden next spring, it’ll do you well to put carrots on your early-to-plant list.

Quick Carrot Facts

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Botanical Name

Daucus carota subsp. sativus

Plant Type

Edible taproot, root vegetable

Height

1-2 feet (30-61 cm)

Spread

0.75-1 inches (2.0-2.5 cm)

Root length

5-8 inches (13-20 cm)

Light

6-8 hours of direct sunlight per day

Soil

Loose, well-drained soil (sandy or loamy), pH of 6.0–6.8

Hardiness

USDA Zones 3-10 (Not in the US? Convert your zone)

Growing season

Early spring to late fall, and over winter for warmer USDA Zones

Time to harvest

55-80 days depending on variety

Types of Carrots

Carrots can be understood in terms of several broad general categories, reflecting their origin, purpose, or physical traits. In general, carrots fall into Eastern and Western types. Eastern carrots—typically those beautiful hues of purple, red or yellow—originated in Central Asia and are rich in anthocyanins. Western carrots, which were developed later in Europe, include the familiar orange types bred for sweetness and high beta-carotene.

Another category is their use. This divides carrots into their purposes, such as for fresh-market use, for processing, for storing and those that are specifically bred for “baby carrot” cut production.

Several carrot cultivars are beloved by both home gardeners and market farmers. ‘Nantes’ are prized for their crisp texture, uniform shape and exceptional sweetness. ‘Danvers’ carrots, which have a tapered, robust root form, perform well in heavier soils and are great for storing. ‘Chantenay’ carrots are shorter, have broad ‘shoulders’ and are well-suited to shallow or compacted soils. Imperator carrots have a long, slender profile and are the ones most commonly seen in grocery stores, offering a high sugar content ideal for fresh eating.

Burpee has an array of different carrot seeds, from Kaleidescope Blend of colors to different lengths.

Planting Carrots

Growing carrots from seeds isn’t difficult especially if you take some time to prepare your soil first. Plus, planting carrots from seed allows you the opportunity to mix it up a little and select a different variety of carrot or even a different color!

Carrot seeds are very tiny. It can be helpful when seeding carrots to use a manual seed dispenser which will only disperse single seeds at each depression. Otherwise, broad sowing will require thinning to allow each root room to grow and keep them from warping in shape.

When to plant carrots

Carrots are a cool season, hardy biennial that can be sown as soon as the garden can be worked in the spring. Carrots’ deep roots don’t make them good candidates for starting inside and then transplanting, so wait until the soil temperature outside is above 50 F (10 C) and directly sow your carrot seeds.

When properly timed, carrots can deliver two crops during the growing season. The first crop should be sowed directly into the garden 2-4 weeks before the last spring frost in your area. For a second fall harvest, sow seeds in mid to late summer.

In mild climates, grow this nutritious vegetable almost year-round by planting successive crops and using heavy mulch to protect them from winter temperatures.

Best soil for carrots

Carrots thrive in a soil type that is loose and deeply tilled, such as sandy loam. The key to getting them to grow straight is to prepare the soil before planting. Remove any roots, rocks, or big chunks of plant detritus. Rake the soil until it is loose and free from debris.

The best soil pH is 6.0-6.8, but many varieties can grow in 5.5-7.5. Avoid planting carrots in soil that develops a crust after irrigation or rain as this will make it difficult for seedling emergence.

Light requirements

Select a location in the garden that has full sun for growing carrots. Ideally, the plants should receive 6-10 hours of sunlight each day. Carrots grown in less sun will not produce robust roots, which is the part of the plant we harvest and enjoy.

How to Plant Carrots - Step by Step

Carrot seeds are very tiny. about the size of a sharpened pencil lead. It is nearly impossible to sow the seeds to the proper distance or in a straight line, so I don’t try. Don’t panic, though because the carrots can always be thinned out after germination. It is easiest to broadcast (lightly scatter) the seeds in a bigger garden bed or sprinkle them in as neat a row as you can manage. Or, use seed tape. Both methods are detailed below.

Direct sowing carrot seed:

  • Choose site and timing. Pick a sunny spot with loose, stone-free soil. Sow in early spring as soon as soil can be worked, or late summer for a fall crop.
  • Prepare soil. Work soil to 8–12 inches (20-30 cm.) deep, removing rocks and dirt clods, and rake to a fine finish.
  • Mark rows. Lay out rows 12–18 inches (30-46 cm.) apart.
  • Create a shallow furrow. Make a shallow trench ¼-1/2 in. deep (0.6-1.3 cm.).
  • Sow seed thinly. Sprinkle seeds along the trench. Aim for about 18-20 seeds per foot in a row.
  • Cover and water. Lightly cover with fine soil, then press down gently with the back of a rake or a board to ensure soil-seed contact. Moisten with a fine spray so seeds don’t wash away. Keep soil evenly moist until germination.

Using seed tape:

Seed tape is simply a strip of two layers of tissue paper with seeds evenly spaced in between. This makes it easy to sow the tiny seeds without worrying about dropping them or getting them spaced correctly.

You can purchase tape pre-seeded with carrot seeds (find seed tape pre-seeded with Nantes Half-Long Carrot Seeds at Burpee), or you can make your own. If making your own, use perforated toilet-paper or thin paper and a light flour/cornstarch (1:2 ratio) paste as glue. Lay down a strip of paper the length of your row, place seeds at desired spacing; e.g., 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm) for mature carrots, 1/2–1 inch (1.3-2.5 cm) for baby types, dab a little paste over each seed to hold the folded paper and let dry completely.

  • Prepare bed. This the same as for direct sowing: a loose, fine soil with a shallow 1/4-1/2 inch deep (0.6-1.3 cm) furrow.
  • Lay the tape. Place the seed tape in the bottom of the trench. Space rows at the same distance 12–18 inches (30-46 cm)
  • Cover. Lightly cover, firm and water gently as with the direct-sown seeds.

Carrots will take anywhere from 2-3 weeks to sprout. At that time, thin the seedlings to up to 2 inches ( 5 cm) apart.

Carrot Care

Watering

Carrot plants need to be kept moderately moist. Give the plants 1 inch ( 2.5 cm) of water per week. Carrots that get too much moisture will rot, while those with too little, will become misshapen and bitter. Water deeply and thoroughly and allow the soil to dry a bit before rewatering. Reduce the amount of water when the roots are three-quarters of their mature size to prevent splitting.

Fertilizing

As root vegetables, carrots do not need much in the way of nitrogen. Too much nitrogen will cause the root to branch. Prior to planting add a 10-10-10 granular fertilizer into the top 3 inches ( 7.6 cm) of the soil.

Supporting

Carrots do not need staking or supporting. Their frond-like leaves grow bushy and directly upward and when planted closely, those leaves find support in each other without flopping over.

Mulching

Mulch around the plants with clean, organic material to keep weeds at bay. Mulch will also help the soil retain moisture, allowing you to extend your time between waterings without drying out.

Thinning

Carrot plants do not need pruning, but they do need to be thinned to allow for underground growth and expansion. Once the carrot seedlings have reached 3 inches (8 cm) tall, snip or pinch seedlings at ground level so the remaining seedlings are about 2 inches (5 cm) apart. Look for those that appear scrawny, small or are practically on top of each other.

DO NOT pull the carrot seedlings out to thin them. Remember, those tap roots don’t like to be disturbed. Instead, cut them as close to the soil surface as you can. When you pull on one small carrot you will be disturbing the roots of those nearby.

Harvesting Carrots

When you should harvest your carrots depends whether you’re growing a spring or fall crop, and also on your climate. Carrots planted in the spring should be picked before the heat of summer really kicks in, as prolonged heat can make the carrots tough.

If you're planting your carrots in late summer for a fall crop, wait until after the first frost or two has occurred. Frost is a sign to the plant that winter is coming, and that it's time to start storing sugar to last it until spring. This sugar greatly improves the flavor of the carrot. After the first frost, cover your carrots with a thick layer of mulch to keep them from freezing, and let those sugars build up.

Now that you know when to pick carrots, you’ll want to know the best procedure for how to harvest carrots from the garden. Grabbing the foliage and giving it a pull often results in a handful of leaves with no carrot attached. It’s better to dig carefully around the root or lever up with a garden fork and then remove it from the soil. This Wood-Handled Steel Spading Fork from Lowe’s is a great tool for harvest carrots.

Cut off the green tops 1/4 to 1/2 inches (6-12 mm) from the top of the carrot and rinse and dry the roots before storage. All carrots may not be ready at the same time. Bypass small carrots and allow them to grow. This can extend a harvest period by 3-4 weeks.

When harvesting carrots, consider how much you can use in a two- to four-week period of time. Carrots can be left in the ground for an additional four weeks or even longer in winter. Make sure you harvest the last of the carrots before the ground freezes solid.

Many gardeners overwinter carrots in the garden covered with heavy mulch and harvest as needed. Use straw or a thick layer of dried leaves, row cover or low tunnel to cover the carrots. How long you’ll be able to store the carrots in this manner depends upon the weather in your area. This Plant Covers Freeze Protection Kit on Amazon can protect and extend your carrot harvest for weeks or even months.

Preparing and Storing Carrots

When harvest time rolls around, make sure you’ve got a carrot-storage game plan. Topped carrots (i.e. carrots with the tops removed) will stay crisp for two to four weeks in your refrigerator’s produce bin. Stretch that time even longer by nestling them in a bucket of sand in a cool cellar, where they can last for months. Just keep them away from apples and pears—those fruits release ethylene gas, which can turn your carrots bitter.

Longer-term options? Carrots take beautifully to canning, freezing or pickling, so you can enjoy your crop well past the season. And don’t forget the greens! Use them in pesto, soups, or salads—or toss them in the compost. Topped roots always store best: under ideal conditions (32°F / 0°C and 90–95% humidity), they can keep for four to five months.

Propagating Carrots

The best way to grow these root vegetables is by seed. Seed is readily available and can be saved if you allow the previous season’s crop to flower.

However, if you want to regrow carrots from a discarded carrot top for fun, that is totally doable and a great project for kids.

Just cut off the top 1 inch (2.5 cm) of the carrot. Place it in a water- or potting soil-filled shallow dish, keeping an eye on the water, and set it near a window. Eventually green foliage will emerge from the carrot top! While you will not get a new edible carrot root, you will get some harvestable carrot greens for making pesto and adding to salads.

Carrot Problems

While being a relatively low-maintenance crop, issues can develop during the course of growth. For instance, it’s critical to keep weeds out of the area when carrots are just seedlings, as the weeds compete for resources and often grow faster than the young carrots. Mulching will help with this issue.

As for pests and diseases, some of the common issues include carrot root fly maggots, which feed on the roots, and carrot weevils, which chew tunnels down through the core of the carrot. Overwatering may encourage fungal rot diseases, while compacted soils and rocks will result in malformed roots.

Growing Carrots in Containers

Growing carrots in containers is an excellent project for early spring or fall, as carrots prefer cooler temperatures than vegetables of summer

Grow carrots in soil that is lightweight and well drained in containers that are deep enough for the carrots' growing taproot. Containers such as this Dillen 7-Gal. Black Resin Nursery Pot are available at Home Depot. Containers should have drainage holes to prevent roots from rotting in soggy soil. Some carrot varieties, such as Miniature and Oxheart, have naturally small roots (2 to 3 inches (5-7.6 cm.) long at maturity) and so are suitable varieties to grow in containers.

Container grown carrots need regular moisture. Containers require watering more often than crops in the ground. Mulching can help retain moisture.

Your container-grown carrots will produce better with little root disturbance, so be careful when pulling weeds. Start your container carrots outdoors when temperatures are still cool, about 45F (7 C). They’ll grow their when temperatures are anywhere between 55 and 75 F (13-24 C). Keep an eye on summer weather, as full-sun conditions can be too hot for them. If that’s the case, place the container in a spot with some afternoon shade and with temperatures 10 to 15 degrees lower than in sunny spots.

Fertilizer your carrot containers with a balanced plant food that is light on nitrogen, the first number in the three-digit ratio. Some nitrogen is necessary, but too much can encourage excessive growth of foliage with less going to carrot formation. Most varieties are ready for harvest in 65 to 75 days after planting.

The beauty of growing in containers is that it allows the flexibility of moving the crop to a cooler spot when temperature soar, and for covering if temperatures go below 20 F (-7 C). You can even overwinter your container of carrots for an early spring harvest.

Growing Carrots Indoors

Can carrots grow indoors? Yes, and it’s even easier than growing them in the garden because they thrive on a steady supply of moisture—something that's hard to provide outdoors in the heat of summer. When you grow your own carrots, you have options for varieties that you'll probably never see in the grocery store, including unusual shapes and a rainbow of colors.

Potted carrots fill their container with dark green, lacy foliage that you'll be proud to display in any room of your home. You can grow baby carrots in any size container, but longer varieties need deeper pots. Choose a pot that is at least 8 inches (20 cm) deep to grow short or half-long varieties, and one that is 10 to 12 inches (25-31 cm) deep for standard-length carrots. Fill the pot with good quality potting soil to within an inch (2.5 cm) of the top. Now you are ready to plant carrots.

The first challenge to growing carrots indoors is getting those tiny little seeds into the soil. Don't worry about trying to space them evenly around the pot, just moisten the soil and sprinkle the seeds over the surface.

Once they germinate, thin out the extra seedlings with a pair of scissors so that the remaining carrots are about one-half inch (1 cm.) apart. When they are about 3 inches (8 cm.) tall and you can see which seedlings are the sturdiest, thin them again to about an inch (2.5 cm) apart or the distance recommended on the seed packet. Place your potted carrots in a sunny window and keep the soil moist at the surface until the seeds germinate. Water the pot when the soil is dry at a depth of 1 inch (2.5 cm) once the seedlings begin to grow.

When the seedlings reach a height of 3 inches (8 cm), it's time to start a regular feeding schedule. Use a liquid houseplant fertilizer mixed at full strength every two weeks. Harvest carrots any time after they develop their mature color. Tiny, immature carrots are a tasty treat, but you don't get much carrot for your effort, so you probably want to let at least some of them grow to full size. Harvest the carrots by pulling them straight out of the soil. Digging around in the soil disturbs the roots of other carrots and may cause deformities. Not enough carrots? Prolong the harvest by planting additional pots of carrots at two-week intervals.

Companion Planting

Companion planting creates a more diverse garden with the benefits of sharing nutrients efficiently, repelling pests and attracting beneficial pollinators. A companion planting of carrots and onions for instance is a long-standing tradition. The aroma of the onions deters the carrot root fly, they say, and the smell of the carrots repels onion fly from the onions. Another option to repel carrot fly is mint. Supposedly the strong scent from this herb and alliums repel the fly, although there is no scientific data to back up this claim.

On the other hand, dill, celery and root parsnips and potato are not considered good companion plants for carrots. Root crops all require high levels of phosphorous, thus planting root crops close together leads to competition for nutrients and a less vigorous yield.

Interestingly, dill can cross pollinate with carrots, leading to less than savory hybrids. However, carrots can increase the likelihood that parasitic wasps and lacewings are attracted to dill and parsley.

With the exception of the above, most crops are suited as carrot companion plants. These include lettuce, chives, onions, peas, radishes, cabbage, leeks and herb such as sage and rosemary.

A carrot and tomato companion planting is especially beneficial. Carrots like things a bit cooler, so growing them beneath the protective leaves of a tomato plant keeps the roots cool. Intermix with lettuce and onion to maximize space. The varying root depths allow a smaller area to utilize water and nutrients efficiently.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why won't my carrot seeds germinate?

Carrot seeds need consistent moisture and light soil contact. The top inch of soil must stay damp for 7-21 days. Drying out even once can stop germination.

Why are my carrot tops growing but not my roots?

Too much nitrogen can cause leafy growth with small roots. Overcrowding and shade can also reduce root development.

When do I harvest carrots?

Harvest when roots reach their mature diameter - usually 1/2 to 1 inch across. Carrots can stay in the ground after maturity for several weeks in cool weather.

Carrot Growing Essentials

Ellen Wells is a horticultural communications consultant with 30 years of experience writing about all aspects of the gardening world.

She has worked for many of horticulture’s biggest brand names, writing blog posts, articles, press releases, and design and instructional pieces. Her previous roles include Senior Editor and Editor-at-Large for Ball Publishing.

Ellen is based in New England where she gardens in Zone 7a. She loves tending to flower-filled containers on the patio and puttering around her vegetable garden.

With contributions from