Why Is My Orchid Dying? 5 Common Causes & How To Save It Before It's Too Late

Orchids make up one of the most gorgeous and varied groups of flowering plants in the world. Many common species are readily available to beginner growers, while avid orchid collectors can covet more unusual or rare varieties. Whichever side you fall upon, you will face some challenges as an orchid grower. If your plant is in a sudden decline, there are some very likely reasons why your orchid is dying.

The first signs of most orchid problems are usually in the leaves. You will also need to look at the roots, especially aerial orchid roots. If these are discolored, soft, and mushy, or look unusual in any way, the plant needs to be attended to as soon as possible.

Most common issues usually stem from improper orchid care and ambient conditions. However, you may also be experiencing issues with disease or pests. Here are the top 5 reasons your orchid may be dying and how to fix the problem.

1. Incorrect Light Levels

There are many commonly cultivated types of orchids. Each of these has different light requirements, so it's important to understand which variety you are growing. If you provide too much or too little light, your orchid will decline in health and may eventually die.

For example, orchid light needs for Phalaenopsis and lady slipper orchids are on the lower side. These species require on average 1,500-foot candles from a filtered, indirect light source.

Medium-light varieties are Dendrobium, Cattleya, Oncidium, and Miltonia. Bright, indirect light of 2,500-foot candles will provide ideal conditions.

Orchid species that can handle more sunlight are Vanda, Brassavola nodosa, Brassia, Degarmoara, and Cymbidium, all requiring around 5,000-foot candles.

However, you don't need to be scientific about it – just keep an eye on the leaves. If foliage turns a darker green, the plant is not getting enough light, while orchid leaves turning yellow means the plant is getting too much light.

If the plant is getting insufficient light, grow lights with both cool and warm light should be put into play. Keep the plant 10 inches (25cm) away from the bulbs and provide supplemental light for 12 hours. If the orchid seems to be getting too much light, use a gauze curtain to filter the sun.

2. Lack of Humidity

On average, orchid humidity needs to be in the region of 40-70 percent. This is a wide range, however, and will differ for each species. Most orchids are tropical and like to be in the higher humidity range.

If the leaves develop brown tips or the aerial roots are crusty and darkening, the plant may need more humidity. In the home interior, especially in winter when heating systems are in use, the plant will need some more ambient moisture.

Mist the leaves every day or place the container on a saucer lined with pebbles and filled with water. Every few weeks, sanitize the saucer to prevent fungal disease.

As a rule, the humidity needs to be higher in warmer temperatures, and lower in cooler temperatures. To raise humidity for houseplants you can use a humidifier or group the plants together. This latter solution will increase humidity through the plant’s transpiration.

3. Fungal and Bacterial Leaf Disease

Since the vast majority of orchid species are tropical and love a humid environment, fungal and bacterial orchid diseases can become an issue. Spotting, especially black spots, on the foliage can indicate either pathogen.

If the suspect is fungal, remove infected leaves and spray the plant with a copper fungicide. You can also dust the plant with cinnamon, which has natural antifungal properties.

Bacterial diseases often start out as water-soaked areas on the leaf. In Phalaenopsis, bacterial disease enters when the plant is injured and can kill the plant in 2-3 days. Other species of orchid will see the leaf breaking down and becoming mushy. Eventually, the leaf splits open and spills out liquid which will splash on other parts of the plant and pass the disease elsewhere.

In all cases, remove infected leaf material and spray the plant with a bactericide. Increase air movement, and use good sanitation practices.

4. Root and Bulb Rot

Orchid root rot is another fungal disease caused by several fungi. It can occur when the plant is overwatered, the bulb or root is damaged, or when the soil is overly fertilized. The roots and pseudobulb will become discolored, dark, and mushy.

The pathogens responsible will block the vascular system of the orchid, preventing the uptake of nutrients and water, leading to an overall wilted state. There may also be an unpleasant odor.

As the disease progresses, the stems will become limp, and foliage will turn pale and wither. Orchid buds falling off can occur and the plant will not develop any new growth.

To treat the condition, repotting orchids is required. Remove the plant from its pot. Sterilize the container with a bleach and water solution. Rinse the plant’s roots free of the old soil. Trim away any diseased roots with sterile pruners or scissors. Dust the roots with fungicide and repot in a fresh specialist orchid potting medium.

Going forward, it's vital to learn how to water orchids correctly to avoid a repeat occurrence.

5. Pests

A host of insect orchid pests find these stunning plants delectable. Thrips, mealybugs, mites, scale, whiteflies, and aphids are the most commonly found insects.

Shiny and sticky orchid leaves and stems is a sign of honeydew, a substance secreted by sucking insects like whiteflies, scale, and aphids. Many of these insects are tiny and can be hard to spot but mealybugs will show up as cottony growths on the plant.

Thrips can be detected by putting a piece of white paper under the leaves and gently shaking the foliage. Little black dots will indicate thrip presence.

In most cases, wiping the leaves and stems with warm, soapy water, or insecticidal soap will remove the bulk of the insects. Isopropyl alcohol is also useful to remove tiny insects.

Soil or fungus gnats are also often observed. These delicate, fly-like insects congregate when the soil is overly moist and over-fertilized. Their larvae will feed on roots and plant tissue that is rotting.

Always let the upper 2 inches (5cm) of the soil dry between waterings. Sticky cards are also an effective control. Cut these into strips to insert in the soil medium and catch the adults.

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